Showing posts with label Transsiberian Railway. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Transsiberian Railway. Show all posts

Sunday, July 6, 2008

Almost busted by Canadian border cuties

One would think that crossing the border from the United States to Canada is the most trivial of exercises. Especially if you're an Austrian citizen in possession of a United States A-2 visa (which you receive when "traveling to the United States on behalf of your national government to engage solely in official activities for that government") who had previously crossed Peruvian, Bolivian, Chinese, Mongolian and Russian (among others) borders without any issues. Think again, because on Wednesday I spent almost 2 hours considering the fact that I would

(a) be escorted to the nearest airport and put into the next plane going to Austria
or
(b) have to spend the next weeks living on the bridge close to the Niagara Falls which marks the border between the USA and Canada with neither country allowing me in -- but what a fantastic view (as my travel companion A.H. puts it;-)

Luckily neither of these things really happened however I do have to admit that I was a bit nervous and above mentioned possibilities did cross my mind.

What happened was that when approaching the border I wasn't sure whether the US or Canadian border officers would take care of my I-94 arrival/departure record since normally this is handled at the airport and it was my first time crossing a US border on land. So we stopped at the US Customs and Border Protection office to ask about that. After waiting inside the office for 10min without anyone being at the front desk I decided to try my luck with one of the officers on the parking lot outside. Especially since sitting in there made me slightly nervous as various people who had been pulled out of cars or trains (with one guy speaking on his cell-phone and saying "something came up in the computer about a thing I did back in '72"). The US CBP officers were friendly and explained to me that the Canadians would take care of my record once I entered the country. So we happily got back into our car, paid our $3.5 bridge-toll and approached the Canadian border through no-man's land.

Arriving on the other side the Canadian border officer looked at our passports and started his routine of asking us questions about our purpose visit, our destination, duration of stay, travel plans, etc. Asked about my plans I explained to that I was visiting A.H.'s parents close to Toronto before moving over to see some friends in Vancouver and then going back into the United States before returning to Austria. He was obviously concerned when he heard the word "moving", especially when followed by me saying that "yes, I do have all my belongings with me in those two suitcases". A word and a sentence so innocent in my head but probably setting off the alarm in the officer's head. We were kindly asked to pull over for a more detailed examination.

We had previously talked about border crossings and A.H. told me to prepare myself for some serious beauties in uniforms. But I certainly wasn't prepared for that. Seriously, I'm not really into someone going through my car, backpack and suitcase and asking me questions about my belongs, but man, she was cute. And so was her partner. The first question I had to answer was obviously what the hell my OLPC XO-laptop was? (I should start counting how often I've been asked that.) Then, when opening my suitcase the little box of impeachmints that I had bought back in DC fell out and I earned an odd look from our officers. Funnily enough I had bought those mints together with an "I love my country. It's the government I'm afraid of." t-shirt, so go figure...

Anyway, after the examination we were sent into the office to what I expected would be the routine of showing them our slip of paper and then being allowed to drive on. Of course that didn't happen. I was told that considering that my US visa was to expire on that day Canada couldn't be sure that I would be able to leave the country again and obviously they didn't want me stuck there. I explained them that I would re-enter the US under the Visa Waiver Program (VWP) which allows citizens of 20-some countries to enter the United States for up to 90 days when traveling for tourism or business. However the Canadian Border Protection officer (yes, she was also good-looking) asked for us to return to the US border-station and obtain a guarantee (in the form of a filled out I-94 form) that I would be able to re-enter the United States.

So we went back across the bridge to the US CBP station where our passports (even A.'s, although he really didn't have anything to do with the whole thing except for travelling with me) were taken at the entry booth and we were sent inside the office to await our fate. So while we were reading magazines from 2005/2006 (saw an interesting article about thefacebook.com) I was slowly starting to sketch out my alternatives. Even though my visa was technically expiring that day my A2 status allowed me 30 extra days to leave the US without committing a visa-overstay. Thankfully no living on the bridge!

After some 15 minutes the US officer called our names and handed us the passports, basically asking why we had bothered to stop by. We once again explained my situation and the Canadian demand for a visa-guarantee. He promptly replied that there's no such thing as a guarantee for being allowed to enter the country unless you're a US citizen. A. had the smart idea of asking the officer to call his Canadian counterpart to explain this to them since they obviously didn't understand the situation. Additionally I managed to convince him to give me an I-94 form even though they're normally only handed out upon entering the United States.

After another $3.5 toll, another drive across the bridge, another set of explanations at the Canadian border booth we were back in the border office, this time talking to another officer. I was much relieved when she told me that our dear friend M., the US border officer, had in fact called her to explain the situation. Plus me being able to show a completed I-94, even though it was in fact totally useless, seemed to satisfy her. After some more waiting she called me over again to say that yes, I would in fact be allowed into Canada. When walking out the door I realized that she hadn't removed the previous I-94 slip from my passport. This could have caused some serious issues when re-entering the US since I officially wouldn't have left the country and then things could have gotten really complicated.

As you can imagine I was much relieved when finally driving away from the border station and repeatedly looking at my Canadian visa which, as it turns out, now lasts until January 1, 2009.

The absurdity of the situation is still beyond me. Had I entered Canada via any other way, nobody would have bothered to even ask me about my travel plans yet alone ask for proof that I could enter whatever place I would be travelling to afterwards. Seriously, I don't see the connection. Even assuming that the United States wouldn't let me into the country, the only difference that it would make to Canada is that I would leave the country flying out to Europe instead of heading to the United States. So what's the point of even considering my status upon entering the United States? Also, and this is what's really bothering me, when someone like me - European, well educated, fluent in English, having a diplomatic visa in his passport and being lucky enough to deal with a great US CBP officer - has these kinds of issues entering the country, how difficult must it be for everyone else?

In the end it's really as they say: Never judge a country by its border protection staff. Even when they're Canadian cuties.

Saturday, August 11, 2007

Transsiberian Railway

As previously mentioned one of the main reasons for starting this blog is to talk about my planned 4-weeek trip with the Transsiberian Railway. Right now while I'm in the middle of preparations you'll probably find a lot of b******* and complaining about different embassies, visa-regulations and whatnot. While I'm out there travelling I hope to make this somewhat of a central location for keeping everyone informed on what I'm up to. Basically an online diary of sorts. I'm also hoping to spare myself from sending long copy-pasted e-mails about the latest events on the road to different people. After I return I might upload some photos from the trip and just draw a general summary of what I've seen.

Anyway, I'll be travelling with one of my best friends, a guy I met during my Zivildienst (social-service, the alternative to mandatory military-service here in Austria) and two of his university collegues. We're an international group (2x Austria, 1x Poland, 1x Portugal) and a bit on the techno-centric side in terms of our studies (2x Physics, 2x Computer Sciene). Should be good fun!

The current plan is to fly out to Bejing from Munich (and via Dubai) on August, 25th - exactly two weeks from now. We'll then spend a couple of days in Bejing with jetlag and some touristy sight-seeing. We found a very nice Hostel which is said to be "in a traditional Chinese courtyard " and only a "10 minutes' walk away from the alleyways to Tian'anmen Square". Plus they have a Beer Drinking Competition! :-D We'll also try and make it into one of those Peking operas, I've been wanting to see one in person for quite a long time.

From Bejing we'll head up to the Great Wall of China with local trains, I'm really really looking forward to seeing that massive structure with my own eyes. After that we'll slowly be moving towards the Mongolian border, again relying on local trains. Our original plan was to take one of those direct international trains from Bejing to Ulaanbaatar (capital of Mongolia). However we had to abandon that plan as these trains only seem to leave from Bejing on Mondays and Tuesdays. As we'll only be getting there on Sunday afternoon this is definitely too early for us. Apparently there's also a train leaving on Thursdays however this one can't be reserved in advance so we'd have to try our luck at the Bejing train-station once we actually get there. There's also the added annoyance of not exactly knowing when the border between China and Mongolia is open. From what we know Sundays are definitely closed, Saturdays might be closed and on all other days the border closes at something like 4 p.m. or 5 p.m.

As you can see our plans and information are barely adequate and we'll have to improvise as we go. There are of course a number of agencies here in Europe that can organize all the details of your trip. Though you can expect to pay quite a bit for their services. So being travellers on a (low) budget we hope to get by cheaper by organizing things ourselves. Plus there's the added excitement of actually having to talk to people instead of feeling like a pensioner on completely pre-planned tour with guides at every step of the way. We'll see how it goes!

Moving on...

Once we actually make it to Ulaanbaatar we'll start looking for a jeep + driver and maybe a guide/translator. The current idea is to head to a place called Bayankhongor (a provincial capital if I'm not mistaken) which is south-west of Ulaanbaatar. From there we'd like to head south into the Gobi desert for 2 or 3 days before we go back up north and check out a National Park. The issue again here is that we're not quite sure how we should organize that. Apparently it's quite hard to find good English-speaking guides outside of Ulaanbaatar so we'll probably start checking there first. The other option is to go to Bayankhongor (or Arvaikheer) by bus and hope to find jeep / driver / guide there. Again, at this point there's not much else to do but hope that everything goes relatively smoothly. So in case I suddenly stop blogging once I've left Ulaanbaatar you can figure that (a) I'm stuck with a dead jeep somewhere in the middle of nowhere, (b) we ran out of food and are being cared for in small monastrry or by nomad herders or (c) decided that the Gobi is so nice that I'm not willing to leave anymore.

From Ulaanbaatar we'll be moving up north to Russia and the city of Irkutsk. Or much rather Lake Baikal. We intend to spend a couple of days at the island Olchon where we're planning to do some hiking, biking and just generally enjoying the place.

From Irkutsk we're taking a 3-day train-ride back to Moscow. When exactly is still unclear as the timetable seems to change every few days but from what we know at this point we're planning to leave Irkutsk on September, 19th. September, 25th is the date of our flight from Moscow back to Vienna, so we hope to get there in time.

Well, that about sums up our current plans for now. Plus it's past 4 a.m. around here so I better grab some sleep.